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Old 01-26-2011, 06:57 PM
zebellis zebellis is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2010
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8) Pry back the carpet under the armrest with a screwdriver being careful not to use the wood panel as leverage - as it will likely chip or crack.




9) Unscrew the exposed screw. Put the shifter into reverse or drive (with the car off!). Lift up on the panel and it will hinge at the front until you can pull the panel off.






10) Remove the fader switch. If you are using this option, then it's likely that you've already been messing with these wires to access the speaker wires. In any case, you need to pull the wires down through the bracket holding the window switches, and out into the open area near the shifter to get them out of the way. This may involve cutting or unsoldering the wires. Do this at your own risk! I did this last year when I replaced my stereo, so I don't have any photos. The gray/blue wire that powers the light in the switch will come in handy with our new switch.




11) In the back of the glove box compartment is a group of wires that lead to the glove box light. Carefully remove a few inches of the sheath. Tap into one of the black and yellow striped wires to get power for our vacuum relays. Run the wire under the vacuum switchover valve (Y7) and through to the center console compartment where you will be installing your switch. 4-5 feet of wire should be enough.




12) You could use the brown wire on the lead to the glove box light for ground, but I chose to run a new wire to the bolt holding the black crossmember to the frame. If you want to do it the hard way (like I did), you'll need to remove the passenger side vent, and move the large air duct out of the way (it's actually not that hard). The vent has four spring tabs holding it in place. Using four small screwdrivers or coat hanger wire, pry the bottom spring tabs up and the top ones down enough to release pressure on the surrounding dash. The vent should slide out, but it may take some persuasion. Carefully disconnect the illumination bulb.



View through the passenger side vent opening



13) The ground wire only needs to be long enough to reach into the center of the glove box opening, but with plenty of slack. This is where our new vacuum relays will go. There's plenty of space between the crossmember and the side vent air duct to tuck the relays so we can get the glove box back in. You'll need to split this wire off so that we can make two ground connections - one on each of the vacuum relays.

14) On the front of Y7 are numbers 1-7 corresponding to each valve. Number 3 goes to the footwell pod, number 4 goes to the center pod. Disconnect them, making a note of which is which (you might want to label these if you want to undo everything).

15) Using the photo, cut your hose pieces and put everything together to match mine. It's very important to install the check valves. At any given time, one of valves #3 or #4 on Y7 will be open to the air via the open ports on the back of Y7. The check valves will prevent Y7 from sucking a vacuum through one of our new hoses connected to #3 or #4 and getting unlimited fresh air from the open port on the back of Y7 for the opposite valve. That would prevent the vacuum suction from getting to the pods. It's also important to leave the top valve on our new vacuum relays open to allow air to flow through to the vacuum pod when we want to turn that pod off (by energizing the respective vacuum relay).



16) I'm not sure if it matters which side of the vacuum relay you connect ground to, but I just did whatever was done in the car that I took the vacuum relays from. (You can also look in your own car). So, in that case, connect a ground wire to each vacuum relay using the pin on the same side as the part numbers. Connect a separate wire to each of the other pins (on the same side as the little diagram), and run these two wires through to the center console compartment where your power wire went earlier (step #11).

17) Tuck the vacuum relays, hoses, and wires down in the space at the bottom of the glove box compartment between the black crossmember and the black air duct. I tucked all the hoses with the check valves under the bracket holding the crossmember, and left the original hoses going to the vacuum pods above that bracket. Do whatever works for you, but be careful not to disconnect the center vacuum line from the rubber angle connector that leads into the middle of the air box where the center vent pod lives. You should be able to see this with the ACC unit pulled out of the way (see picture in step #6).





18) You can test your creation at this point. The key is to use a setting on the ACC that you know will produce air from either one of the center or footwell vents. Turn the car on and press one of the non-defrost buttons on the ACC unit (warm the car up if necessary). None of the three wires you pulled through the dash (one hot and two from the vacuum relays) should be connected to one another - this way air should be coming out of both of the center and footwell vents. If you connect one of the relay wires to hot, that vacuum relay's solenoid should energize and turn off flow to it's respective pod - stopping the flow of air to that vent. Try it with the other wire to test the other vacuum relay.

Continued...
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