Quote:
Originally Posted by rs899
A valve body problem is also possible, I guess, and that is much more correctable at this point without dropping the transmission. I have no idea what a valve body costs. Probably $1000 from Mercedes, $10 on ebay from somebody who has one lying around. Valve bodies are specific to applications- for example the valve bodies from a 722.315 diesel will work differently than the one in yours for a 380SL 722.3xx.
There's no reason to think it needs to be replaced rather than carefully cleaned, IMO and then the various upgrades can be done at the same time.
If it is disassembled, follow the instructions carefully ( especially about flipping it over when separating the halves- don't ask)
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Thanks for the additional advice, but I think the rebuilder already opted to replace it with a rebuilt one, without giving me the option.
Last three questions, hopefully:
1) Should the transmission shop have been able to determine that the problem was in the valve body, rather than the B3 clutches, seals or pistons, when I described it to them, or they test drove and pressure tested it, as they were supposed to? (I hate to think that the problem could have been solved simply by replacing or rebuilding the valve body, rather than the whole transmission.
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2) Since the shop said that they had to rebuild the transmission to solve the problem, and they gave me a price that presumably included the labor and parts for doing that, should I now have to pay for them to buy and install the valve body?
3)
AFAIK, this transmission hadn't had the fluid replaced until I did so app. 40-50k miles ago, when the transmission must have had app. 150k on it. Considering that some people have said that changing the fluid in such a transmission can create problems by removing varnish on seals and other parts, is it possible that the fluid change I performed ended up causing my problem? (I hate to think that it did.
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Thanks in advance for also answering these questions for me. You guys have been absolutely tremendous.