Welcome aboard siwash1.
Owners Manual... You can order from the dealer or call MB on their 800 number. Also, might find one on E-Bay. Shop manuals (paper version) are out of print but you can still find from a few sources. Chassis manual and engine manual will be about $75 each or more. Wiring diagram, I think is about $25. There is also a manual available on CD ROM, but I prefer the paper manuals.
Heater fan... Could be a fuse. These German fuses can look OK and still be bad. On mine there are 3 or 4 fuses located in little square boxes around the engine compartment. I'm not sure, but I think the heater fan fuse might be one of these located away from the main fuse block.
Oil Pressure.... Should stay on the peg except will drop down to mid scale at idle after the oil warms up.
Water Temp.... 175 is good. It may climb a bit on a long uphill grade.
Little knob.... Idle speed adjuster. Supposed to be used kinda like a choke to increase the idle until the engine warms up. On mine, I don't fool with it. I just increased the base idle a bit. That works for me, but may not be a good idea if the engine mounts are worn as evidenced by severe shaking on shutdown.
Door locks.... You have a vacuum leak somewhere. Need to find it if you want central locking to work, or plug it if you don't care about the passenger doors locking automatically. Also, I haven't studied the circuit, but there is a vacuum operated switchover relay which controls whether the A/C fan or the heater fan runs. It is conceivable that a vacuum leak could be keeping the heater fan from running. Maybe somebody more familiar with this setup could comment on that.
Engine knock.... These things can be pretty loud. Hard to quantify over internet. Sometimes some fuel addatives can quiet them down a bit, but it will always be noisier than most gas cars.
Smoke..... Not uncommon for them to put out some black smoke. Sometimes a good dose of fuel addatives like Redline Diesel Fuel Catalyst can reduce the smoke by cleaning the injectors up, but, it's still gonna smoke some. Basically, black smoke is pretty much harmless (at least to the car). White or blue smoke is bad news except for maybe a little puff at startup.
Hard to start when hot..... I assume you have figured out the gorilla knob and know you might have to glow it for a few seconds even when it's warmed up. I would want to change fuel filters just on the assumption that they havent been changed in a long while. Let us know when you are ready to do that, and we will guide you through changing the main fuel filter. Also, if the fuel is old, it may be no good. Try some fresh fuel if the car has been sitting a while. Hard starting when hot can also be due to a weak starter not turning the engine over fast enough.
If, after all is said and done, you decide that this isn't the car of your dreams, please post it here on Mercedes Shop if you want to sell it. There are always enthusiasts here looking for 240D's. It is hard to sell a car like that on the open market anymore. It's mostly a hobbiest car nowdays.
2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser
2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg
And remember folks, Only You Can Prevent Hilliary.
Last edited by Palangi; 09-16-2002 at 11:48 PM.