Now that the torque converter is removed you can tip the transmission onto the bell housing part of the transmission casing so that you can undo the nut on the output shaft. Make sure you do this on a flat surface so you don't have the transmission resting on the input shaft. If you have a previously unmolested transmission you'll see a two pronged nut which officially needs a special tool for its removal. There is a more modern alternative for the output shaft nut which needs a deep 30mm 12 point socket. Both of these nuts are staked in place.
My transmission had the original two pronged nut. I couldn't be bothered buying yet another 2 pronged special tool socket (I'd already bought a bigger sized one for the rear wheel bearings) so I drilled it and with a punch I hammered in an anti-clockwise direction – with as much care as possible – until it came off.
Please note in the picture above I held the three legged output shaft yoke in place with wood and clamps rather than “just selecting park”! Don't select park for this method of removal you could knacker it.
Clean away any swarf or muck before you continue. A good blast of brake cleaner is one of the more expensive but effective ways...
Flip the transmission back onto its oil pan and remove the front bell housing part of the casing.
Save – jealously guard – the shims that you'll find between the bearing and the main gear set.
You can now continue to remove the primary or “front” pump. To do this loosen the mounting bolts and carefully tap the heads with a rubber hammer so that you push the front pump out of the other side of the casting.
Put the front pump carefully to one side for the moment. (Move forward to post # 31 to see pictures of the front pump
722.118 Automatic transmission rebuild (Monster DIY))
It is now worthwhile removing the little bits from the outside of the rear two parts of the casing. So remove the speedometer cable connection, the gear shift selector, the kick down solenoid, and the pressure test caps.