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:EDIT: Posting as is for customer in need..

This DIY does NOT use the Mercedes special tools.
You will note that everything used here can be found even in the most rural areas of North America.


#1. Loosen the REAR wheel lugs, not more than one turn.

#2. Raise the rear of the vehicle and set it on jack stands.

#3. Remove the two 10 MM fasteners holding the plastic lower control arm cover.

#4. Remove the plastic lower control arm cover.

#5. Place a floor jack under the lower control arm (side you start with) and raise until it almost lifts the car off the jack stand.

#6. Remove the tire.

#7. Dismount the caliper.

#8. Remove the rotor.

#9. Separate all link arms from the knuckle.

#10. You WILL need to seriously BEND the brake backing plate for tool access; Use a hammer and 2x4 to pound it back BEFORE mounting the rotor, and you must test for rubbing/scraping, tweaking/adjustment of the backing plate as needed.

#11. You will re-use only the lower control arm bushing BOLT and NUT on the knuckle.

#12. Carefully rotate the knuckle 180° (up side down).

#13. Slip the knuckle ear into the lower control arm, and put a long under size bolt through the mounting holes. This is only a temporary work brace.

Please note: You will apply approximately two tons of force.
#14. Assemble the extraction tool, I used.
* Three foot sections of 7/16 - 14 threaded rod cut to my need (even if you are rough, each piece will generally survive two cars)
* Ten nuts, because they take serious abuse, and may need replacing after each operation.
* A 1.5 inch socket for the bushing to pull into.
* Several heavy washers, or at least twenty average washers. You will wreck more than you expect due to crush/abrasion/extrusion.
* A cheater pipe that will slip over your brace wrench.
* One box/open end wrench to act as brace.
* It is a personal decision on weather to use a deep socket/impact gun combination, or a second wrench + cheater pipe. It requires a strong impact gun with a good air supply.

#15. Extraction is as the pictures show, a simple application of physics.



Going in with the new bushing...................

Please note: You will apply approximately two tons of force.
#16. Assemble the installation tool, I used.
* Three foot sections of 7/16 - 14 threaded rod cut to my need (even if you are rough, each piece will generally survive two cars)
* Ten nuts, because they take serious abuse, and may need replacing after each operation.
* A 1-5/16 inch socket for the bushing press.
* Two used MB# 6150310051 Spacer Ring, because they where the perfect size/shape, and free junk.
* A 7/16 or 3/8 thick 1-5/8 diameter washer or similar size piece of bar stock, (look at the pictures for ideas), at least twenty average washers. You will wreck more than you expect due to crush/abrasion/extrusion.
* A cheater pipe that will slip over your brace wrench.
* One box/open end wrench to act as brace.
* It is a personal decision on weather to use a deep socket/impact gun combination, or a second wrench + cheater pipe. It requires a strong impact gun with a good air supply.

#17. Installation is "again" as the pictures show, a simple application of physics.

#18. The bushing needs to be roughly centered (equal outer sleeve protrusion on both sides) when you finish pressing, so don't seat it to deep.


Suspension kit rear multi link


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