Quote:
Originally Posted by angst
sweet. I'm kind of getting somewhere.
With the valve "adjusted" to the point of not allowing a feeler in plus a little bit extra my observed measurement at the timing mark is pretty much the same.
Rotating the lobe from the starting position starts moving the gauge when the lobe is getting close to pointing down.
With the dial gague rotating counter clockwise not quite a 1/4 turn to "20" on the small red numbers the reading on my timing mark reads about "13" on the numbers to the right of the center.
So does that mean my timing is 2 off or 22 off?
22 off would mean a slam dunk that my timing chain is the issue right?
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I want to make sure that I understand what's going on - so please excuse my pedantic questions.
1) You are "doing" this to the intake valve over cylinder #1 - right? That's the second valve from the front of the engine.
2) The deflection of the valve should be 2mm - that's 0.08 inches according to the DIY - is that what you've done?
3) If the answers to above two questions are good you end up reading 13 degrees AFTER TDC at the crank?
The intake valve needs to open AFTER TDC not before!
You now need to check which cam is fitted to your engine - there is a number stamped into the back of the camshaft => closest end to where the driver should be sitting.
If for example you have cam code 05 for a turbo motor (OM617a) then a new chain would be reading 9 degrees. If your measurement comes out at 13 degrees at the crank then you can calculate the elongation as follows =>
13 degrees - 9 degrees = 4 degrees elongation.