MEGA EDIT.
nuke all that. I re-tested and used and read my dial gauge correctly this time (i think)
With my new dial reading skills and actually letting the dial spin around 3/4 of a rotation to 80/20 on the other side of the dial all my readings on the balancer are making sense now.
In the attached pic the red color was my old reading. My new reading is what I have annotated with purple.
With the dial gauge method the balancer reads 7
I also managed a flawless line-up when revisiting the
aligning timing mark method which reads about minus 2. The reader arrow is aligned with the left edge of the pin.
(I realize now that the pin is not 0 but rather just to the right of it)
If I understand it right. with the
gauge method it should read from 9 to 11 to be in tolerace and I have 7.
With the
aligning marks method I should be getting +2 and my actual reading is -2.
I am now pretty bummed. I thought I had this figured out as a chain or key would put me back in business
If my timing is pretty close then it is going to be something else all together that is causing the smoke then right?
damn
Army I appreciate you help and want to be sure I addressed all the things you brought up
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1) You are "doing" this to the intake valve over cylinder #1 - right? That's the second valve from the front of the engine.
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yes
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2) The deflection of the valve should be 2mm - that's 0.08 inches according to the DIY - is that what you've done?
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Nope. Looks like I did the dial gauge wrong first time. With my new dial set up and reading skills I am getting a value of about 7 for the timing mark.
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3) If the answers to above two questions are good you end up reading 13 degrees AFTER TDC at the crank?
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About 7 is the reading now with better dual use skills.
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You now need to check which cam is fitted to your engine - there is a number stamped into the back of the camshaft => closest end to where the driver should be sitting.
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R617 051 12 13 is the number on the back of the tower part that holds the cam. That is the only number I could find back there poking around with a mirror.
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If for example you have cam code 05 for a turbo motor (OM617a) then a new chain would be reading 9 degrees. If your measurement comes out at 13 degrees at the crank then you can calculate the elongation as follows =>
13 degrees - 9 degrees = 4 degrees elongation.
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Humm, so I am getting a bit shy of what even a new chain should read and numbers will go up as a chain wears. Does that mean my readings are still whack?