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Old 05-23-2012, 10:16 AM
pimpernell pimpernell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400 View Post
You have a third choice. It may be the best option to try at the moment. Really read and get to understand the milli volt method. Put the first element back to some approximation of where it was. Judicious use of matching the voltage on the remainder of the elements might get you at least far closer than where you are now.

If by some chance your proven voltages where all about the same now you might get by by cranking the idle down. You still would want to read the voltages to make sure that you do not have a cylinder running too much hotter than the others. This would mean verifying your glow plugs all have a simular voltage output n ow as they are used though. Fourth option might be a cheap used puimp out of a pick and pull. The issue is you do not want to run an engine out of serious loading balance.

One first thing might be to take a magnifying glass and try to see if there is any physical evidence of exactly where they were before. It is possible I think to get all the elements close to a good comprimise position with the milli volt method used properly though. No substitute for a bench clalibration but better than nothing.
I noticed in the picture that the two right side delivery valves have an outline of the washer as it must have been in the original setup. I would suggest setting those two valves back to their approximate position, and then use the above instructions to calibrate the other two. Good luck
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