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Old 06-02-2012, 02:03 AM
TommyMacDaddy TommyMacDaddy is offline
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Brick, NJ
Posts: 48

I'm still in the process of gathering all of the bits for the complete teardown and reassembly.

I think this whole deal with trying to measure the ring gear/ bearing and then w/axle resistance (gallons of milk should have been beer or schnapps, btw;forget the sausages. Thanks but no thanks!) through the pinion nut is out to lunch.
A small variation on this reading from bearing drag, incorrect lubricant viscosity at ambient temperature, close tolerance on a new bearing etc, etc....will screw the whole deal. I'm a big fan of reusing bearings that look good and have run in together as a set.

I'm going to use ring gear marking paint, partially assemble the ring gear /pinion with the limited slip (I discovered the tag on the boneyard diff;NICE find BTW!) and (used, good) side bearings preloaded as I would with a Ford, GM or Mopar rear and see what it looks like. If it looks like a good lead-to-middle pattern, I'll heat the assembly on a hot plate (60C should be good)for a while and see if it changes.
I know someone is going to call me a clutz (or worse) for doing it this way, but I honestly think the Germans have overworked this setup into something that doesn't even make any sense.The only real position devices are the crush collar and possibly the carrier side bearings. If the pattern is wrong and the torque reading is right, according to the inch-pound wrench and according to the FSM, what does it matter? It will self-destruct anyway because the contact area is wrong. I know some because I've been playing with this stuff a while, but I'm certainly no expert.
I may seem argumentative here, but I'm really just trying to get a discussion going on this. I appreciate all input and value your feedback.

We'll see if I'm right or not. Hang on!
Vehicles 1968 250SE;4 speed manual on the floor, no marker lights
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