Quote:
Originally Posted by greazzer
I agree and I will copy-cat your suggestion for the VS Switch. I did pull it after driving it around for about 10-15 minutes. A LOT of break pumping and you're right that it works just like the OEM. I doubt there was 5-10 minutes before I yanked it, so I am pretty sure if it was hot or warm, I would have noticed it. I think with the VS Switch the heat should not be an issue. MB has a pretty decent sized vacuum resevoir compared to other makes, so I am thinking it will really run minimally, especially for me as I only have vacuum breaks and the doors/trunk pods/ and the little bit in the HVAC (manual controls).
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The Vacuum Resevoir is isolated by the Check Valves in the Locking System and is of no help to the Power Brakes.
The Transmission part of the Vacuum System always has a leak at the Vacuum Valve.
In My case I connected it to the Normal Brake Booster Line (I replaced the Hard Plastic Tubing with Rubber Emissions Hose and also made it longer so as to route it along the Fender Well top).
Connected like that without a Check Valve allows the Vacuum to leak out of the Pump itself. That means when the Car sits the part of the Vacuum Circuits that do not have their own Check Valves like the Brake Booster and Door Lock system looses vacuum.
I already have some Check Valves. Someday I will have the Vacuum Shutoff Switch also and will connect it up again.
Another idea I had that I did not try is what if you wired the Electric Vacuum Pump to a Switch that worked off of the Brake Pedal so that as soon as there was any pressure on the Brake Pedal the Vacuum Pump was on.
I don't know if the V Pump could create enough Vacuum Fast enough like that to work correctly.
Maybe if a Vacuum reservoir was added.
That would only supply Vacuum for the Brakes Booster.