A couple of additional thoughts regarding the DIY brake job-
-It is a good idea to compress the caliper puck into the caliper. It makes the installation of the pads and the new thicker rotor (disk) easier but also cleans and "lubes" it.
One caution though: Take a closer look at the master cylinder. If it is full, you will need to remove some brake fluid so it doesn't spill out and curdle your paint.
-Never pry against the rotor ..... NEVER
-I use extra-large channel lock plyers to compress the puck into the caliper. I use either an old brake pad for one side and the out housing of the caliper on the other.
-If you clean the rotor (some don't require this, so be *absolutely* sure which is required of your new rotors) make sure they are completely clean. Twice in the past I have *thought* the new rotors were clean. Just a little grease, oil, residue will cause eventual "high-spot" resulting in pulsating rotors and brake pedal. If in doubt, clean them again, both sides before installing. BTW, a simple dot of pad lube the size of the period at the end of this sentence can cause a problem.
-Break squeak: Typically pads come with shims and some with anti-sqeak paste. You should put the paste (lube) on the "upper and lower" edges and the back of the pads, only. Be careful of this lube in that it will lube the braking friction surfaces (which you don't want).
-If your brake pad sensors have any wear on them, replace them.
-I have found that if you turn the steering wheel full lock, it is much easier to access the caliper.
-The retaining bolt is straightforward but it often will turn unless you also hold its respective nut. The catch here is that the nut requires a thin wrench. You can substitute with another tool (vise grips etc) but ideally you want to use a thin headed wrench.
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)
Last edited by haasman; 11-27-2002 at 02:30 PM.