The spring perches are not just flat sheet metal. The curved side profile adds a lot of strength to them versus if they were flat. And yes, these are the parts that are attached to the LCA, and hold the bottom end of the spring in the car.

The washers I'm using are very thick and broad. A larger thicker washer could be used if you're really worried about it, but what I used worked well.

I do wear face protection when using any spring compressor, especially one that's never been tested before!

The tool did not deform or bend in any place, even when fully compressed. I once used a harbor freight macpherson strut spring compressor on a small 120 lb/in coilover spring, and it started to deform when approaching full compression, so I knew to watch out. The tool I made held up well.

To really test it, when I was doing the 2nd spring, I decided to compress it as much as I could. The nut started to become too hard to turn, and the spring was more compressed than in the pic above but still not compressed all the way. I left it like that over night. The tool didn't deform or anything.

I forgot to mention - I clean and oil the threads every time I use it. Oiling the washers helps a lot too.


Diesel911 - that's a cool tool too. So the piece of stock goes at the lower end of the spring, and the larger washer at the other end jams against the body in the engine bay? That's a nice trick - just leave the spring in the car while you do the work. In my case I was cutting a little bit off my springs so I had to take them out. My only suggestion would be to add a little lip at the edges of the bar stock.

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'82 300TD
'77 6.9
'75 280S
'74 280
'87 Porsche 944 turbo