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Old 09-12-2012, 12:52 PM
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jay_bob jay_bob is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Columbia, SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PackerEdgerton View Post
I recommend you go with a NEW unit, and go back to R12. That's what I did with my 83 240D (Which has less HP than the 300D) and the A/C works very well. Quiet, cool, even at 95 degrees at 1 mile elevation. Dare I say it - the 240D hardly notices when it is on. You can tell when it kicks in, but it's NOT a huge drag. My R4 reman unit lasted less than a month before it died.

* Get a new R4 compressor
* Figure out the correct sealing washers for it
* Vacuum out all the R134a, it's not as good (IMHO) as R12, purge the system thoroughly.
* Change the fittings back to R12
* May have to change the drier and receiver, etc. (I'm no expert in these things)
* Reassemble, charge with R12.
* Enjoy cool and quiet A/C
Like P-E, I have a 240D 1983 also, VStech and I did exactly this procedure (except mine has never seen R134a).

More hints from our adventure:
Get a new CompressorWorx R4 from a major chain auto parts store. (Tried to use PP but they could not match the price, you will quickly figure it out when you search online for R4 Compressor.) They will do a ship-to-store next day deal.
Got the package deal with the receiver dryer, compressor, and TXV. Go ahead and get the new temp and pressure switches for the dryer too, my old pressure switch did not easily transplant and the temp switch fell apart as I was trying to transplant it. Pick up an o-ring kit if you don't have one already.

Pull the lower passenger dash cover panel, and change out the TXV, it really isn't that difficult if you have the right line wrenches. Change all 4 o-rings. Bonus points if you service the blower while you are in there.

VStech, help me remember the correct oiling procedure, I know we put a portion of the oil in the compressor and the rest in the dryer, correct? How did we keep from losing the oil while installing the compressor?

If you have 2 people it really helps to get the compressor in place, if one holds it from above and the other goes underneath to put the bolts in. Front of car needs to be up on ramps for best results.

Once you get the compressor up in place then carefully remove the dust caps and hook up the manifold. Make sure you use the correct spacer rings that come in the box for the manifold connections.

Once you have it back together, vacuum, then pressure test with dry gas. If it holds the pressure, then vacuum again, and recharge with genuine R12. Only R12. No substitutes.

I can honestly say, on R12, it cools better than either of my newer Hondas with R134a. And we have probably one of the worst environments for AC here in the Carolinas, high 90s ambient and 90% humidity not uncommon in the summer.

And like P-E, I can barely tell when the compressor hits. I can hear it engage, and there is a momentary dip in idle, but then it is silent after that. And I have more cold air than I can stand. Most of the time the temperature dial is halfway between OFF and MAX, and the blower on speed 1 or 2. Even on scorching hot days.
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Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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