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Old 11-08-2012, 11:39 PM
SDL SDL is offline
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 9
Originally Posted by jmbeam View Post
I am under the gun to get the transmission replaced in this E300D. I leave for Europe in 9 days for my spine surgery. I wont be able to do much physical work for at least 6 months( one level fusion, two level artificial disc replacement) so I need to get this done this week. I picked up a used one from another member of this forum. He said it had about 68,000 miles on it.

Is there anything I really need to be careful of?

Are there any parts that should be replaced while I have the tranny out of the car? ie. Flex plates etc?

Does anyone know of any website that has information and help with replacing this model transmission?

Are there any tools that I MUST have to get this job completed?

Any idea on how long it should take two people to get this done?

Thanks again

You will need a 19 mm flex/swivel socket for the top couple bolts that secure the tranny to the block, you will need about 3' of extensions to reach from behind the tranny tail piece to the front of the tranny where the bolts are. An impact gun is very good to have but it can be done with a breaker bar'ratchet it's just hard to keep the socket on the bolts and torque the breaker bar/ratchet at the same time.
If you don't have a shop with a lift and a tall tranny jack you will need either a tranny jack from Harbor Freight or at least an adapter that fits onto a floor jack. The trany is heavy and unwieldy, when removing and reinstalling you want to minimize it hanging on its input shaft.

There is a rubber O-ring seal on the tranny dipstick tube that you should have new when you install the tranny.
Drain the tranny and the torque converter, 5 mm Allen head drain plug bolts, both use a copper crush seal washer so get new washers.

Two 19 mm banjo bolts for the tranny fluid cooler lines, two large diameter aluminum crush washers are used to seal those to the tranny.

Don't forget the electrical connection on the tranny, on the upshift solenoid, and the speedo cable or wire, the shifter rod should be disconnected at both ends and removed completely out of the way. There will never be a better time to replace the shifter rod's plastic bushings.

Unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate through the hole (the plastic plug/cover for this hole might be missing or damaged and it usually gets damaged removing it so order a new one ahead of time) in the oil pan, there are 3 pairs of bolts that secure them together.15 mm bolts I think.
There is an exhaust hanger that bolts to the tranny that will need to be removed, there are rubber bushings that will likely be rotten or gone so have new ones, you may have a U bolt clamp that goes around the exhast pipe attached to it, be prepared to replace that if it doesn't come off intact.

You'll want to remove the drive shaft completely so you have room to work, think about if you'll need new flex joints, new drive shaft bearing carrier, or any exhaust gaskets or hangers if you need the exhaust lowered or removed to get to the drive shaft for removal.

Once you get everything disconnected and unbolted support the tranny so that it's almost level and then you can try to pull it towards the rear, usually it will move a 1/4 or so then you cam start to lever it using a screw driver or pry bar bit by bit backwards, be mindful that the torque converter is only slip fit onto the tranny input shaft so it could fall off if you yank the tranny backwards and it tilts downward at the front!

Often times the nose of the torque converter which fits into the hole at the center of the flex plate will be stuck kind of hard, once you get some space use a large pry bar to get up between the flex plate and the front of the torque converter and pry them apart moving the pry tool from one side of the nose to the other. The nose fits about ' 1 into the flex plate, on the back side the torque converter slides about 2 3 onto the tyranny input shaft.
When your reinstalling the tranny is when the jack/tranny adapter are important, raise it up into the tunnel and use the fine tilt adjustments to level the tranny. Mak certain that the torque converter has been assembled correctly onto the tranny input shaft, there are interlocking cutouts on both that should mesh together. Before you get ready to lift the tranny make sure things are assembled correctly and use some wire or ductape to keep it in place together as you put the tranny on the jack and lift it up into position, then remove the tape or wire before you push the tranny back into place onto the engine.

Use a wire brush in a drill or something similar to clean up any rust dirt or corrosion on the nose of the torque converter and the hole in the flex plate where it fits, test fit the torque converter into that hole and make sure it goes in easily before starting to reinstall the tranny. Apply a bit of grease to both. You want it to fit with no problem rather than find yourself fighting to squeeze it into place while maneuvering it attached to the 125 lb tranny.

Have fun it's pretty straight forward and simple but it's still a challenge because of where it is and how large and heavy it is, having someone to help is a good idea. It will take almost a day because you want to be careful and methodical getting things apart and back together without things like broken parts or stripped nut or bolts.
I would get the replacement installed, then make sure it drives first and then worry about any fluid and filter change, just because I like to have one variable to figure out at a time if something things don't work.
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