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Old 03-31-2013, 08:40 PM
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eatont9999 eatont9999 is offline
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Location: Dallas, TX
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Originally Posted by barry12345 View Post
I might consider also removing and cleaning out the delivery valve. The worse senario is the element has become worn on the number three . This may be compensated somewhat unless it is severe.

My limited logic would be that the element is now having to move further up the bore to generate the pressure to open the injector. Hence the raw fuel smell because of the extremely delayed timing on the number three injector. . .
Also that does indicate that the number three element can still generate opening pressure. Just later. Quantity of fuel delivered once the element is corrected may be okay.

This does tend to sound like injection pump damage from the fuel used to some extent. Not the end of the world if a used injection pump may be ultimatly required. I suspect that cylinder can be put back on line by careful use of the milli volt method. One could do it by ear once it is proved to be the issue. By ear is not the best though as by the same token you do not want any given cylinder runing hotter than the others.

Some familiarity with the milli volt system is not a bad ideal anyways. It can save you both time and money down the road on many issues. Basically it just is a method of reading the burn temperatures of one cylinder compared to the others.

Plus if you are careful and take no shortcuts can enable you to rematch the cylinders burn temperature to the others. I suspect number three is cold compared to the cylinders showing the carbon buildup and this is reflected by less milli volts on the glow plug compared to the ones showing carbon deposits when engine is running. Only takes a little reading in the archives and almost any cheap digital voltmeter meter. Everyone should own a digital voltmeter anyways in my opinion. It will pay it's nominal cost off many,many times over a persons lifetime. Useful even around the house.

Actually almost anytime you have to do electrical troubleshooting. Even if just locating an open glow plug for example.

Thanks, Barry. I am very well aware of the millivolt method and I have used it in the past to locate bad injectors, etc. The one caveat in using the millivolt method is that all the glow plugs must of the same make and age to get an accurate reading. I just replaced all 5 glow plugs a few weeks ago with new Bosch plugs, so I might just check the numbers to be sure.
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
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