The older 10-pin cruise control system uses a vacuum device to pull the cable and thus set the throttle. A lot of times that device will leak and you will not have cruise. What also can occur is your cruise amplifier develops a cold solder joint and/or the capacitors on it fail.
I normally repair the 14-pin units as I've developed a test harness and setup to test and ensure that they work.
I have worked on a few 10-pin units (I think 5-6 so far), the only way I have been able to test them is to send them back to their owners and have them install the amplifier. So far each unit has been successful. Since I can't test them I don't ask much money for the repair work vs the 14-pin units.
One day I will make a proper test setup for them but I just haven't gotten to them.
So if I were you I would first check out the amp, its going to be cheaper to replace/repair than the vacuum servo is. I think a new/replacement servo is >150? Its been a while since I looked.
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