This job is relatively easy.
Much easier than with MacPherson struts, since there is no need to remove the springs.
Caution and common sense should be observed, however, since a slip of a jackstand can send a spring flying. This procedure is inherently dangerous . Please do not sue me.
1) Do one side at a time. Safer, and you can reference the other side as needed.
2) Lift frame with jack, place jackstand under control arm as far out as possible. This is important. If the stand is too far in on the CA, the spring can get away (leverage).
3) Strongly suggest using the type of stand that has a 'concave' tube axle-type top, as opposed to a flat top. There is a perfect 'notch' in the CA, just inboard of the balljoint to receive this type of stand.
4) Drop weight of car onto stand. Do not be tempted to use jack under control arm instead. This is not safe practice.
3) Make sure stand is on a hard level surface, and totally secure before unbolting strut.
4) Removing the top of the strut from its mount requires a 7mm hex key to keep it from turning as the nut is removed. This is not a common size, so check your toolkit first. This was the right hex size for both Bilstein and Boge. Others may vary.
5) Remember to salvage plastic clips that secure wires to strut from old strut.
6) If you do choose to replace the upper mounts, mark the position of the 3 nuts with paint (or something) first. This will preserve your camber/caster settings.
7) Check balljoints for play before starting work. At that mileage they may be toast, and there is no point in tearing into your suspension again for this anytime soon. (Balljoints are a whole other procedure, with other concerns not mentioned here).
This job is otherwise very straight-forward.
Bumpstops are not included with struts
Upper strut mount (I have yet to see one deteriorate, but I hear it happens)
Best of luck, and happy wrenching.
1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi.