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Originally Posted by vandor
-Any tricks to filling to cooling system other than adding coolant until full?
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Perhaps raise front of car so that air escapes more easily as block is filled.
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-Old fashioned antifreeze will be fine? I assume so, as I use it in all my iron block/alu head cars.
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Much of the standard green AF states it is good for aluminum. I have used it for 20+ years on similar engine. But no harm in using Zerex G05.
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-The manual says the ignition timing at idle should be 5 degrees AFTER TDC.
Reallly? How the heck can an engine run that way? Should I set it there?
What is max timing supposed to be (say at 4000 rpm).
My 'other' car runs waaaay better when advance 10 degrees from stock, as the stock spec was retarded to reduce NOx emissions.
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The 5degATDC is the NA spec and is caused by the vacuum retard. But Euro specs are different. I would start at TDC or even 5 BTDC at idle with vacuum connected. Or about 7BTDC without vacuum. Then check at 3000rpm - it should advance to about 27deg BTDC if centrifugal advance is not stuck. I usually rotate the distributor fully CCW, then back off CW about 1/4" on clamping slot as a starting point.
BTW, Having the AC on stops the vacuum retard.
Make sure points are set - before worrying about dwell, set then to 0.014".
Al asked about a CO meter. Hardly anyone has one. But to adjust idle mixture (knob on ECU) and load mixture (MPS) you really need to have a way of measuring exhaust %CO or AFR. But most people are just shooting blind on these adjustments. Best not to touch MPS without a meter. But for ECU knob, set it in centre of range and then try moving it one click at a time either way with a little burst in-between until you get smooth idle. The ECU adjustment only affects idle (gas pedal not touched).
Have fun.