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Old 05-20-2000, 04:51 PM
Michael Bushnell
Posts: n/a
Hi, I bought a Idle speed control unit My car is 1983 380SEC the unit part nbr is 002.545.33.32 and it is remanufactured.
Prior to installing, and as instructed to insure no damage to the idle control unit, resistance was checked to the idle valve. Resistance ohm reading between pins 1 and 5 was 10.4 with instructions saying 10 ohms plus/minus 2. The car started and idled at about 800 RPM therefore I assumed it was fixed. The next day it was back to its Hi-idle at startup.
Next, I replaced the idle valve. I read on this forum that sometimes they stick. Neither the new or old valve will click when turning the key on or off. It does click when jumping pins 1 and 2 - 5 and 4 per the engine manual. Intermittently now the car starts and idles at 800 RPM which is something it did not do before replacing the idle control. Most of the time it starts and idles at 1200 to 1300 RPM . With the prior controller it usually started an ran around 1500 RPM. With the rebuilt controller the car starts at 800,1250 or 1500 RPM and as the car warms the idle will increase. When starting off at either 800,1200 or 1300 RPM it will warm and to around 1500-1700 RPM.
Is the new Idle control unit bad or is the new idle control valve bad?
Note: both the new and old Idle control valve will click with battery power. With the ignition on there is power at pin 2 a good ground at pin 4. There is no power at the idle control valve, but the pins 1 and 5 show a good connection to the idle control valve. Thanks for any help. Mike
See my SEC and Speedster at in the members cars section.

1983 380SEC
1955 Porsche Speedster
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