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Old 07-03-2013, 02:48 AM
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Diesel911 Diesel911 is offline
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Location: Long Beach,CA
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Originally Posted by Tudor View Post
So after considering everything I learned from this thread, I'm looking at:
1. using Bars Leaks or some other leak sealant. Advantage: cheap. Disadvantage: might not work or might cause other problems.
2. Removing the cylinder head and replacing the head gasket (I suppose that involves having the head machined as well). Advantage: Might as well replace the glow plugs while I'm at it. Disadvantage: Costly, both time and parts, might not solve the problem.

The problem is that I don't have the time to do it and I can't sink any more cash into the car.
For now I'm inclined towards the first option, but first I'll throw some dye in and try to locate any other possible leaks. The overflow tank leaked in the past because there's corrosion underneath it. There's signs of corrosion behind the driver side headlight, where there's another coolant line that must have leaked in the past. So I'd like to investigate those, do an oil change, and then do another oil analysis.
Question: if it's the gasket/cylinder head, shouldn't the rad hose be kind of hard while the engine is running? I find that it's not really hard. Considering that the gasket doesn't isolate the cooling system from the cylinders anymore, some of the compression should work its way into the coolant, resulting in a hose hard as a basketball. But that's not the case.
Going back to the 603 leak test, the hose will be just as hard 8-12 hours after turning the engine off. Not sure what it all means.
Thanks for all the input so far.
It is hard to say. It happens that some Engines get Coolant into the Oil but don't have the Combustion gasses get into the Coolant.

I can suggest a few ways but that would just confuse things more.
It is not unknown for Engine Blocks or Cylinder heads to develop Cracks or have porosity and even casting flaws anywhere on their surface.

This means the Block could have small leak that weeps into the Crankcase Oil.
A Cylinder head could have similar leak in the upper part of the Head that is exposed to Oil.
If there was a Coolant leak in the intake ports above the Intake Valve the Coolant would go into the Engine but no combustion gasses would go in there.
If there is Oil drain Ports on the Cylinder Head and Block the coolant could leak from a hole in the Head or bad Head Gasket in to the Port. Since it is a Drain Port the Oil is not under pressure and of course there would be no combustion gasses involved.
That is what I can think of at this moment.

The Radiator Stop Leak is least likely to cause any issues and cheap.

Other than that your problem at this time is not great enough for You to pinpoint the problem.
So for around the Town driving I think you could just leave it the way it is and keep an Eye on it.
Only time (and use) will tell.
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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