Thanks for your response. It appears the pinion bearing s are shot. This is an 84 190E with a 2.3, automatic. About four months ago, I changed the pinion seal while I was replaving all the driveshaft rubber, and I had the tranny out to replace the rear main seal. With the pinion seal replacement, I only did the seal. If I'm reading the responses correctly, it seems One has to dismantle the entire rear end to replace that crush sleave spacer. This I did not do at that time. I must have went too heavy on that pinion nut which lead to the failure of the bearings. I had the whole thing out with the intention of rebuilding ( I have done a few Porsche 944 transaxles) but have already ordered a junkyard differential unit. On a rainy day I would still like to fix the spent rear. I'm no pro, but a decent shadetree mechanic. I would have put the pinion in with new bearings & spacers/sleeves and then some blue goo to see where on the teeth the ring & pinion were mating. I was surprised to see the post that a "spreader" isnt required, like the CDROM Mercedes shop manual suggests. In disassembling, I went as far as the flange seals (radial). It was late and the circlips were giving me a headache. Only then I read the manual to see that there is a decent amount of load on the circlip.
83,84,85.5 Porsche 944
84 MB 190E 2.3 auto
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by M.B.DOC:
The most important thing is preload on bearings, too tight or loose will result in bearing failure! If you can get at least 40-50 ft/lbs of torque on nut & not have too much preload on bearings the rear should be OK. This is why many rear ends fail after pinion seal replacement. Use in/lb torque wrench to check & set-up preload.
Missed question about side bearing preload, again the preload on the diff bearing are critical also. have set-up at least 100 MB rears & never used case "stretcher".
There are at least 4 different rears that Benz has used, what year & model car?