View Single Post
Old 03-30-2000, 12:49 PM
Herr Leber Herr Leber is offline
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: New York City Burbs
Posts: 177
Thanks for responding Steve. Its always interesting to hear that the real practice is not as agonizing as the factory manual methods!

I went too tight on the pinion nut when I did the seal a few months ago, which killed the pinion bearings. Thanks for the advice on the set up. I dont have an elaborate dial indicator & adaptors. Since I needed the car back together in a hurry, (my wife's ride) I got a used diff unit to slap back in there. I dont want her abusing my 944! Since I'm using a used one, chances are that i'll be down this road again very shortly, therefore I plan on redoing the rear that sitting on on my workbench.

Thanks again.

Pat Leber
83,84,85.5 Porsche 944
84 MB 190E 2.3 auto

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by stevebfl:
The only proper way to set up the pinion bearings is with a new crush sleeve and by tightening (crushing) the bearing inner races till the bearings are tight to an exact amount 10-15inlbs if I remember correctly. This is the force to spin slowly the pinion without the ring gear installed. Just the drag of the tightened bearings.

A proper set-up would then measure pinion depth and everything would be taken back apart and the depth altered by shimming.

Next the carrier preload would be determined and the carrier installed for back lash measurement. I would not vary back lash by change pinion depth. I would do it by moving the carrier side to side with shims.

In practice these methods are very seldom used. Proper pinion depth tools cost thousands of dollars and are differential specific. The original set up is usually used with the proper bearing set-up and a white lead or prussian blue contact pattern is taken and read. Gross errors in pinion depth are corrected otherwise its accepted and backlash is corrected.

Reply With Quote