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Old 10-07-2013, 03:09 PM
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eatont9999 eatont9999 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Dallas, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martureo View Post
Use the centering tool.
  1. Go to Home Depot, buy an M8x 1mm, 25mm or longer.
  2. drain your steering box by removing the drain plug and tuning the wheel al the way to one side (doesn't matter which)
  3. center the wheels as best you can
  4. (have the key in the ignition to prevent the wheel lock) put a philips screwdriver up into the plug hole while you rotate the steering input shaft to feel for the centering "hole"
  5. insert the M8 bolt and screw until it locks the box into position

At this point you have two options. Both require you to remove the inward bolt to the steering bushing and loosen the box side bolt.

Remove the three bolts holding the box to the chassis, remove the key and have the steering lock hold the wheel in place while you reinstall the box to the input shaft bushing.

OR

Remove the steering wheel and center it.



I've not been able to wiggle the bushing enough down toward the box to disconnect it from the input shaft. And I've R&R'd boxes on about 7 cars now. (All which were done by myself, alone)


I used a bolt to lock the steering box at center during the install. I also used the steering lock to hold the steering wheel during installation. Apparently there is enough play with the lock engaged to cause this problem.

If I take the steering wheel off to recenter it, won't that leave the turn signals from cancelling at the right time?
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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