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Old 10-15-2013, 03:42 PM
BillGrissom BillGrissom is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,115
Ditto on always "bench bleed" the MC before connecting the tubes. Otherwise, you will never get all the air out. You don't have to clamp in a vise, I find it easier to pump it on the car using the pedal. True also that you don't need to bleed the whole system if just changing the MC. However, you need to replace the brake fluid every 2 years regardless to avoid severe corrosion. Actually, I don't since I use DOT 5 (silicone fluid) in all my older cars.

I changed the MC in both my 300D's in the last few years, and probably won't ever need to again w/ DOT 5. The MC cost $45 at Autozone and had to re-use my reservoirs. Many times, a failed MC will leak brake fluid into the vacuum booster. If so, remove it and try to get it out. I stuffed rags in to absorb it, then de-rusted and repainted since normal brake fluid (glycol) lifts the paint. Note also that where the MC bolts to the booster is a vacuum seal in my 84 & 85. If true, insure the O-ring is thick enough and the surfaces are clean. In most older cars, the booster had an inner bellows so there was no seal at the MC.
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