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Old 10-16-2013, 04:59 PM
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Phil_F_NM Phil_F_NM is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 490
Lift up the floor mats to check for rust. Check closely on the base of the crossmember below the rear seat for rust.
Check behind the wheelwells and at the jack points.
Take out the first aid kit and reach under the rear window to check for rust.
Lift up the mat in the trunk and look below the spare tire also for rust.

If the window doesn't work, it could just be a dirty switch or a host of other issues all the way up to a bad motor or regulator. Either way, it needs to be fixed and will be a few hours of work at the least.

If the car has a sunroof, make sure it works and then make sure the drain holes aren't filled with pine needles which would lead to more rust.

Check for a squirrel nest. My 300D was formerly a NC car and had at least one squirrel living under the rear seat (lift it up to check) and had a good store of acorns in the ventilation system.

Feel around under the front seats to check for broken springs. Maybe take the seat back off to help with that.

Make sure that all the electrical systems work. Also makse sure the gauges work properly. Check the rear window defogger to ensure it works. Look closely at those elements to see if any are broken or have been "cleaned" off.

Get under the car and try to pull the prop shaft side to side and up and down to check for a bad bearing and or worn bearing carrier. Check the prop shaft rag joints for strings and cracks.

Check the front of the differential for leaks as well as the rear (seal and plugs.) Check the tailshaft seal of the tranny for leaks. Check the oil pan and under the harmonic balancer for oil leaks. Also check the oil cooler hoses and the cooler itself for leaks (do this after the car has fully warmed up.)

Check the AC pump for operation. Check the evil servo base for leaks.

Check under the battery for rust.

Sheck the suspension bushings for cracks. Check the steering box mount for stress cracks in the paint, metal deformation or loose bolts.

Try rocking the wheels side to side to check for worn/loose bearings.

Warm up the transmission and check the lines to the cooler for leaks. Pull the dipstick and smell it to check for burned fluid.

Drive with the window down and listen for grinding in the wheels and squealing in the brakes.

When the engine is warmed up, pop the oil filler cap and see if there is a hurricane of blowby. This may be just a valve adjustment to fix but in old cars it can be worn rings as well.

If you can, pull the valve cover to look for peanut butter covering the camshaft/valve assembly. If you can do this, bring a 27mm socket, a short extension and a ratchet to check timing chain stretch against the mark on the balancer behind the crankshaft pulley.

Bring a vacuum gauge or a mityvac and tie in to the vacuum system somewhere close to the pump line (the first T or Y after the line comes off the brake booster hose.) A good vacuum pump should hold about 18 inches or greater.

If everything works with exception to what you have said isn't working, $2200 is still a high price.

Phil Forrest
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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson
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