Quote:
Originally Posted by Bham617
Ok, here's why I think I need to have my vacuum pump rebuilt was that my mechanic said I did. My car would not shut off, so, he said he disconnected the vacuum line to the break booster and he said that he didn't hear any "hissing". Now, from everything that I've read you would have to use a vacuum gauge to be able to see if there is vacuum. So, now I have a delimma. Should I try and get a "kit" and rebuild it, buy a new one, or get a vacuum guage and test it? Having looked at the thread that stretch posted it appears to be extensive. Any advice?
Thanks
Charlie
|
Yes, a Vacuum Gauge is best.
You might wonder where the Mechanics Head was. If you really have a Vacuum Pump Failure your Power Brakes will not work and you would have had to step really hard on the Brakes to stop;scary.
And, when that happed to Me it turned out that the Check Valve that Screws into the Vacuum pump needed to be cleaned. After removing the Check Valve and hosing it out with WD-40 it has been working for over 3 years with no issues.
(Others have removed the Check Valve and found the Valve parts in pieces; there is replacement Valves.)
The No or slow shutoff issue can be caused by Vacuum losses anywhere in the Vacuum System but more specific in the Shutoff Vacuum System lines and the Vacuum Shutoff Valve mounted on the Steering Colum Lock and the Vacuum Shutoff Valve/Servo on the Fuel Injection Pump.
In short these Cars can have a lot of Vacuum Loss issues not caused by the Vacuum Pump. However, checking the Vacuum Directly from the Pump is a good place to start.
If you invest in a Hand Held Vacuum Tester (a.k.a. Mighty Vac) you will have your Vacuum Gauge and a way to test the Vacuum Components on your Car because it has a hand pump on it.