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Old 01-05-2014, 08:28 AM
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Stretch Stretch is offline
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Rear wheel bearing removal

You are meant to use a special tool for this job.

See here for example => OK... W124 Rear bearings are a BEAR to replace

Sorry folks I'm not paying nearly 300 euros for a special tool!

Today I figured out the following.

This way will only work with the wheel assembly removed from the car. It is also likely to damage the heat shield a little bit. (I knew this would happen and tried to minimise the damage with wood and tape but that effort failed - I'm going to try using a different sacrificial thing later on today)

I was thinking I might be able to utilise the holes on the back side of the wheel assembly to use a conventional bearing remover / harmonic balancer puller type tool but the holes don't line up too well with the centre of the hub...

...so I replicated the special tool effect with my hydraulic press and three bolts of the same length.

Here are the bolts with bits of wood wrapped in tape on their ends



Using the convenient holes in the hub =>

The big ones that look like they're there to make it all nice and light



I poked the bolts through and stood the wheel assembly hub side down in my hydraulic press



This is a bit fiddly when working by yourself but with three bolt "legs" you can eventually get the bloody thing to stand upright. These bolts need to be of equal length. I only managed to find three bolts of the same length in my garage today - I had planned to use five but I couldn't find those old OM617 head bolts I've saved for a rainy day any where! (I can never find anything in my garage when I need it - it is a bloody mess)

EDIT - forgot to say if you remove the allen head bolts that hold the brake shield in position then you've got more space to position your bolts - if you are really clever you might be able to use these positions as the points for your "pushing" bolts...



Anyway with a suitable sized round block (could be a socket) on the other side of the hub you can push it through so long as the bolts are long enough...

...before you apply the full force of the press to the hub make sure the bolts are in a vertical position...

...the stiction on this hub broke at about 6 metric tons as indicated on the hydraulic press gauge. I'm pretty sure it was about there; I was concentrating on other things at the time and trying not to do my impression of a Spaniard waving his arms about whilst watching someone ride off on his jet ski (so you gonna steal my girl friend now you gold chained muther...?)

Hub came out like this



Now I have to get that inner bearing off of the hub.
Attached Thumbnails
Achtung - Das schweinhund baby benz thread-w201_018-rear-wheel-bearing-removal-using-bolts-pushers.jpg   Achtung - Das schweinhund baby benz thread-w201_018-rear-wheel-bearing-removal-using-bolts-pushers-hydraulic-press.jpg   Achtung - Das schweinhund baby benz thread-w201_018-rear-wheel-hub-removed.jpg   Achtung - Das schweinhund baby benz thread-w201_018-removal-allen-head-bolts-rear-dust-shield.jpg  
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Last edited by Stretch; 01-05-2014 at 09:14 AM. Reason: Forgot a bit
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