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FWIW, we're trying to educate you on why you are wrong. First off, Mercedes never used such a designation. Second, there is no such thing as a 5.5 liter M117 engine. There are 4.5, 5.0 and 5.6 liter M117 engines (as far as MB is concerned, give or take a few CCs), but no 5.5 liter ones. So saying "M117e55" makes no sense in more ways than one  It makes it sound like you're swapping in a later E55 engine and are misusing the M117 designation. If you refuse to listen to why you are incorrect on this, the forum will be a little reluctant to help (< seems childish) on other advice, because this is one of the more simple things in this thread.
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couldn't care less what you call the engine, I use the designations that started with the M112/113 even on the older mills because they're easy to type and even easier to understand.
You will need to remove the EGR plug you put in or tap the manifold for a reliable vac source for an idle air valve. You would not want to use the brake booster source or anything too close to the brake booster because this may weaken the braking system's power source AND muck up the supply to the engine under some conditions (like stop and go traffic or crawling congestion).
week-end only car, the vacuum built up from that one line should provide more than enough juice for a panic stop I would think. its still something along the lines of 5/16" I.D.
As far as the trans cooler, I assume you will want it functioning when the time comes to use it. As such, here are some options for you (and this is assuming your trans cooler is built into the radiator):
1) You can take the radiator with you to a local hydraulic and/or transmission shop (the best bet may be a CAT service place or similar). They will have the proper fittings and be able to custom make any hose for you.
the 115 radiator has a cooler in it, which is stange because it was always a manual trans car, however it has been sitting open to the elements for almost 35 years.. perhaps an ultrasonic hot tank bath and flush would be adequate for re use? I'm hoping to find -AN adapters at my local hydraulic line shop. worse case I'm sure they can make me some soft lines without too much trouble. I just want fluid in it so I can start it up at this point.
2) You can use a stand-alone transmission cooler. This may be the easier option. Have the local hydraulic shop make the hoses you need with the original fittings to connect to the transmission end with whatever fittings the new cooler uses on the other end.
certainly have considered this one as well just due to the dirtiness of the 115's cooler.