Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman
A shop replaced the vac pump on a friends 240D to solve a "no-shut-off" problem. The problem turned out to be a leak in the climate pods.
1st measure vacuum on one of the branches coming off the main vac line. These systems mimic what a gas vehicle puts out so look for 15-18 inches of vacuum. Anything less plug the ports going yo the climate & door locks. Disconnect & plug the end going to the brake booster. Vac means the pump is good. No vac means check your work, make sure all leaks are plugged. If so, bad vac pump.
Put a hand held vac pump on the line from the shut off valve. If the car stops your shut off is working.
You can pull a vacuum on every line coming off the main line. All should hold vacuum. If not, just hunt the leak down. There are vacuum diagrams around that make the tracing easy. All of these cars have similar systems.
Almost all of the vacuum pods can be accessed with the dash installed.
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Junkman, thank you so very much for the reply!
Interesting though you didn't reply, or seems, even read the current thread. But, will go with your judgment and see if I get replies using this thread.
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So, not only do I have a leak, but leaks:
The line with the yellow check valve and hear it on the passenger's side of the firewall
A partial leak in the V.C.V. (I.I.R.C. the name of the device on the injection pump for the automatic transmission)
The worst is the black with red strip going to a device on the firewall. One line leads to the blue saucer.
Further, I have engine oil in the lines which I used to not have.
Vacuum pump is easily reaching 20p.s.i. and then tops out at 23p.s.i!
So, now what?
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Junkman, are you saying anything over 15p.s.i. is an issue?
I also have yet to find a diagram for a California 1985 model after spending many hours. What I need is actual pictures?