Quote:
Originally Posted by spdrun
Are the repair panels worth it for a 3" to 5" gap, or should I just bend/hammer sheet steel to fit? Not doing the entire pan, just a section that's about 24" x 5". It doesn't look like there are any stamped reinforcements there, but I may be mistaken.
If I'm doing the welding myself and working outside, the metal of the W123 is most likely galvanized steel. Are there any precautions I should take to avoid metal-fume fever?
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Its not galvanized, but you will have fume concerns from all the burning vinyl. I wire wheel back 1 to 2 inches all around the weld area, but there are collection areas full of vinyl coating that will burn. Keep a spray bottle full of water with you, that will put out the 101 little vinyl fires as you weld. Wear a chemical respirator, not the dust masks, but a full on anti fume one with cartridges
I wouldnt bother with the klokker panels for the floor. Its half the thickness, and the klokker 123 floor pans are notoriously crappy panels. Just buy some sheet steel from a local metal supply. 18 or 20 gauge works for me
Im gonna be doing this exact same repair on my 240 this summer too. Passenger floor is rusted and needs surgery. Worth doing though, took these cars 30 years to rust that bad, assuming you coat the surface properly, probably get another 10 to 15 years out of a good repair