I changed the rear wheel bearing and seals on mine and learned a few things. Two important things really stand out.
Use hardened bolts (class 10.9 if you can get them but 8.8 at a minimum) to replace the wheel bolts when applying torque to the hub.
Use a long bar (6 foot is best) to tighten to tolerances. Anything less will be futile. (I used a homemade tool with a jack handle over it. Similar to the holding tool for universal flange shown here:
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/program/Chassis/35-530.pdf I used 5/16" bar stock and cut it for the side piece with three bolts) If you want a photo, I will have to learn how to attach it to a post or just e-mail in a PM.
The problem I ran into was getting the bar at a right angle to the hub. If it isn't, the tools tend to slip off with the pressure needed to get it tight enough.
It isn't that difficult if you have these items in advance.