Quote:
Originally Posted by feipoa
To be clear, it does not matter how much downward angle there is on the differential as it it slopes down from the diff mount, as long as the two axels are horizontal, I can torque the bushing bolts to 89 ft-lbs?
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No no - don't undo the differential mount and raise the differential. The point is that you tighten the trailing arm bushings when the trailing arms are at their ideal "normal" position. This should be when the axles are level.
So with the car supported on axle stands and the differential mount in place and the front sub frame mounts fitted as well =>
Remove the rear wheels and raise or lower the wheel so that the axle is straight so that you get the ideal position.
You need to do this when the springs are not fitted to the trailing arm. It sounds like you've been doing just the trailing arm bushings one at a time with the springs in - is that correct? If so then I would put some weight in the back of the car / fit a spring compressor and compress the rear springs and then try to squeeze under there to tighten the bushings (but bloody hell what a drama!)
To be honest I've always tightened my trailing arm bushings with the sub frame out of the car - with the axles out you can look through the wheel hub and centre it like sights on a rifle against the centre of the differential output
Quote:
Originally Posted by feipoa
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Has anyone successfully removed the trailing arms bushings without cutting off the flange, or damaging the bushing in some way? If so, how? I went to wiskeydan's post about his homemade bushing press, but he too cut off the rubber bushing flange.
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If I remember correctly I trimmed off a bit of the lip and then used a large plumbing steel pipe fitting to force the bushing out in the reverse direction of the way it was put in. Kind of a reverse of this picture
Where you see the bushing in this picture there was a steel plumbing fitting and the block of wood. The threaded bar went through as above but on the right hand side there was a washer and a nut and a lock nut. A bit further out from the washer and nut next to the bushing I had two more nuts locked together so I could tighten both sides of the trailing arm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by feipoa
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I was thinking I might try using a 2-jaw puller in reverse. I might be able to squish the puller's jaws into the bushing flange area to grab onto the trailing arm. Then use a C-clamp or a vice to squish the jaws of the puller tighter and tighter together to maintain grip on the trailing arm. Then tighten the screw on the puller, which will drive the bushing out.
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Err give it a go - I don't think it will work though
Quote:
Originally Posted by feipoa
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EDIT: If I ultimately fail and need to order new bushings again, is Boge or Lemforder the better brand in this regard?
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Boge == Lemforder these days - they are all part of the ZF group (whatever they are called - might be ZF might be sachs I can't remember)