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Now, you have your braided lines done and your steel lines done. I set the torque for the steel lines at 25 newton meters or around 18 Ft. Pounds.
You're just about done. Install any miscellaneous stuff you removed. For me, it was a tiny "clamp" which was part of steel injector lines.
Now, see the whitish colored round knob? That's your pump. Twist counterclockwise until you feel it's disengaged. The whitish knob is your pump handle. Pump up and down around 30-40 times. Crank your engine around 10-15 seconds. Re-do. I generally have to do this 3 times and my car fires right up. Your car may be more stubborn. I do not crank longer than 15 seconds no matter what. In the worst cases, you can use a micro blast of something flamable at the air intake. I know that will cause debate. This thread is not advocating one way or another. It has always worked and never a problem. It is to be used as a "last resort" type of deal since cranking and cranking your engine is probably a lot worst than a micro blast of something flamable.
I like to perform an inventory when done. 5 old HS and 5 rebuildable injectors and some return line. Everything goes into the trash but the injectors. I like to drive it around for 5 minutes and check for leaks. If you have a leak, it is most likely the braided return line. I would say that's 99% of the time your problem.
This thread is for the OM617.9XX engine. PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK YOUR CAR AND THE FSM SINCE TORQUE SPECS ARE DIFFERENT FOR DIFFERENT ENGINES.
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