Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320
From the symptoms the low pedal was due to low fluid / air in one circuit. When this circuit finally emptied, the working circuit is all that stopped the car.
On a dual circuit master cylinder, there is a free floating piston ( 1 ) towards the closed side of the bore and another ( 2 ) attached to the brake pedal. When everything is working, the pedal pushes piston 2 down, a column of fluid pushes piston 1.
If there is a leak on piston 1, it must bottom out before piston 2 can make any pressure. If a leak on piston 2, it must travel far enough to physically contact piston 1. This is why the pedal will have a to the floor travel. The very hard pedal when you get there comes from 1/2 the brakes trying to stop all of the car.
There are bound to be online vids of how this system works.
Loss of rear brakes isn't less of an issue than fronts as most braking occurs in the front. ( weight transfer )
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Don't know why my interior brake light didn't work. Pushing each of the two manual "testers" worked. When I do the MC I'll have to play with the reservoir and try to clean it out. Does the booster come out semi-easy? 4 Nuts inside? Or, if fluid did actually leak into it, does the vacuum pump suck it out? I'm semi sure I still have power brake action as it hisses when I press the brake pedal. I'm thinking that removing the booster might be a lot of work and am further thinking just swap the MC an proceed from there with fingers crossed. I am 90% sure I wrecked the MC from pushing the pedal too far after installing ne rear calipers a while back. Pick-n-pull around here has not a whole lot to choose from, reservoir seems to be difficult to source.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be. 
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