First thing you need to do is check those coils and resistor tips. If you dont find a problem there, take it Houstons Park Place North and ask to talk to Bo Mclung, big tall drink of water, looks to be dumb as a rock but, he's a good tech. Tell him you talked to me (Joe from Raleigh) and ask him what he thinks about after a test drive. I really think you'll find your problem with either the resistor tips or the coils themselves. The latest version of the coil has a square body with a recessed center section in relation to the peaked center section.
The reason the car will suddenly go to skipping at idle is because ME saw the misfire and turned that injector off. On restart there is no misfire, therefore ME leaves the injector on. Whats really odd is the lack of a check engine light while its skipping but, it still might have a stored versus current code.
The knock sensors are under the intake in the side of the block right around #2 and #5 clys. I'm thinking your car has a harness that includes those connectors in it. Odds are that is not your issue but, worth looking at if no faults can be traced out in the secondary ignition. One surefire way to either eliminate or condem the coils is to swap 'em out and go run it hard. I actually have a set of test coils I pilfered off a blown motor just for this purpose. (without a dyno its tough to get loads right and play with a scope)
Project Smoker, '87 603 powered wagon
Hauler, 96 CTD can you say torque?
Toy 73 Cougar xr7 convertible
Acme Automotive Inc.