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Old 01-06-2015, 11:28 PM
Actros617's Avatar
Actros617 Actros617 is offline
Ich fahre dieseltypen
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,141
Day 8
Reassembly, part 1!

Lots of progress has been made today! Also I'll be posting torque specs based on mercedes repair manual on Alldatadiy.

Parts came in today and it was christmas all over again, theres about $150 worth of seals in here!

Now with the oil cooler exposed removing it was very easy, 10 T27 Torx bolts, watch out for a buch of oil and coolant to spill all over the place, make sure YOU clean all surfaces before reinstalling!

Heres the under side of the oil cooler

Old Seals Orange seals, the rubber on them were stiff and not pliable which caused it to leak oil, you can see the seal is in a fixed collapsed position after many years and mileage of service later. (2nd pic)

New seal oil cooler seals are purple color made of viton rubber it will resolve your leak problem for good, or a very very long time. These are the new seals that are in all 2010 Mercedes OM642 Bluetec engine! Orange seals are no longer available, however if you ever get an orange seal from the dealer return it back and ask for purple ones but most of the time dealers should not be carrying orange seal anymore.

Oil cooler Reinstalled with new purple seal,
Torque Spec on the oil cooler to engine T27 torx bolts,12 nm, there are 10 bolts total.

Intake manifold gasket, made of aluminum or metal, very fimsly and can be bent easily so be careful, notice theres 2 hooks they make sure that the gasket stay on the intake manifold, very handy in my situation.

Intake Manifold reinstall...sigh, this was a battle to put in, since there was as coolant joint that needs to be place between the intake manifold and with all that wire harness, fuel lines are intruding my way and limited space to work with...lets say was rather difficult to reinstall then to remove it, but I made it work and it slip right in...after 45 mins of manhandling!

Please follow this intake manifold tightening and torquing sequence.
Intake manifold to cylinder head bolt Torque spec 16 nm, There are 10 bolts on the left (driver side) intake manifold and 9 on the right (passanger side) intake manifold, making it a total of 19 bolts to tighten

Yellow box indicating the location of the coolant joint pipe for the coolant flow! You must install a new pipe and it comes with new seal

Turbo oil feed pedestal with old gasket at the base,

Turbo Oil feed pedestal Gasket removed (Base), notice a gaping hole, serves no purpose

Turbo Oil feed pedestal cleaned, (Base)

Now heres is an interesting thing the turbo oil feed pedestal new gasket has a new hole, and the part number has also been changed too!
Old part # A1420280
New part # A1420681

New gasket fits perfectly despite the extra hole and it doesn't seem to interfere with anything, never the less its must be a modular design thing that mercedes is doing.

Turbo oil feed Pedestal installed, Torque spec for the bolts 12 nm and there are 4 bolts

Swirl flap motor, now you must install the new there are a total of 4 clips, 2 on the intake manifold 2 on the swirl flap motor, these things will break due to oil exposure, now the new one is actually suppose to be attached to each other this one broke after several attempts to attach this on to the swirl flap motor, yes its very pain in the @$$ to install, also i do not recommend installing the swirl flap motor on to the the intake manifold before installing the intake manifold on to the cylinder head, you will break the fragile clips, swirl flap linkage and the swirl flap motor mount point

Heres the old swirl flap clips, soaked in oil and about to disintegrate into a millions of pieces!

Swirl flap motor installed, Torque spec bolt for swirl flap motor 5nm...just hand tighten the bolts, there are 2 of them.

Fuel rail, ok this is a mess to install, since all the metal fuel line protrudes 1/4 in inside the fuel rails you going to fight with the stiff lines just to get them in espically the middle ones, just slowly work your way in it will go in
Torque spec for Fuel rail to valve cover (for mounting) 9nm, 2 bolts.

Tightening the fuel rail procedure
1. Make sure that your fuel rail is bolted down!
2. Hand Tighten All Nut on the fuel line!, MAKE SURE the nut is not slipping, misthreading, overlapping or stripping! I cannot stress this step enough!
3. Tighten all nuts to 20nm
4. Mark a straight line from the rail to the nut.
5. Turn nut 60* Angle (Correction Thx Resto108)
6. Check for leaks (after starting engine)
This applies to all fuel line

And here is where im at now...starting to look like an diesel engine now.

Current Garage
2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress
1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs
2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver
1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car
1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap??

1987 300SDL 200K+
1994 S320 181K mi
2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi
1999 S420 130K mi
1980 240D 360k mi
15+ Others that has come, stay and gone

1995 E320 SE 220k mi
1984 300SD 350k mi

Last edited by Actros617; 01-10-2015 at 04:57 PM.
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