Hereīs the things that I checked after I had the new parts installed:
1) Cam alignment: Both cams align very nicely with their respective marks on the thrust washer. There is no visual difference between when they align but they both align at the same time.
2) Crank alignment: I checked that the timing mark on the crank (harmonic damper) shows O when when the No1 piston is at TDC.
3) New tensioner was installed and I cranked the engine for about 5 seconds to pressurize it.
4) As far as I could see the Woodruff keys were straight (I did not remove them for inspection but looked at them in place and there was nothing suggesting that they were of the offset type.
At this point I did check the crank to cam alignment and when the cams aligned with their respective tower the crank was at 2-3 degrees before TDC. I had rotated the engine by hand several times to make sure that there were no contact between the valves and the pistons.
I thought everything looked fine and put the rocker covers etc back on and fired the engine up. There was a terrible noise as if I ran a couple of valves in the pistons and the engine was running very poorly.
At this point I realized that things were not quite OK so I took the rocker covers of and moved back the cams one tooth each. This were how everything lined up after I changed the tensioner, rails and the chain. At this point the crank (harmonic damper) showed 15 degrees after TDC when the cams were aligned with the marks on the tower. My fear at this moment was that I damaged some valves but thoght that I now was in the middle of how the car was before I took it apart and how it was moments before when I started it.
Therefore I put the rocker covers and all other parts back on
and started it up. It now ran as it did before I changed all the parts. I drove it to work yesterday and today and it runs slightly better than before. The idle is still a bit uneven at times and the response is noticeably better (not sigificatly better). I still have the tapping/ knocking noise which doesnt get better or worse at different rpms or load conditions. If I run the engine and pull one by one of the ignition cables off there is no change to the tapping. This makes me think that one of the hydraulic elements need replacement
My conclusion is that it must be something wrong with the timing marks on the cams or everything should have been fine the first time I started the car up after the parts replacement. I donīt know if that is possible or if there is something in the process that I overlooked.
This is why I wonder at what number of crank degrees the intake valve should start to open. If I understood the valve timing procedure correctly the degrees should be checked at 2 mm of intake valve lift but Iīm not sure what the reading of the crank should be?
Or is there a smarter way of confirming if the cam timing marks are correct.
Any and all hints are appreciated.