Quote:
Originally Posted by Can't Know
The old, traditional test for the clutch is a simple one. Tested at normal operating temperpature, put the front bumper firmly against an immovable object (or have a helper to stick a foot over firmly on the brake pedal) and set the parking brake fully, then put it in 4th (not OD, just whatever is next down from OD), rev it to 3,500 or so, then slip your foot off the clutch pedal (no gradual release, immediate, full engagment). To pass the test the engine should die IMMEDIATELY. If it bogs and starts to rev back up, obviously get off the gas pedal and push the clutch pedal down, and start planning for replacement.
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Ug! there is a better way to do this. 3rd or 4th gear 1/2 throttle up hill at a speed just above lugging the engine, push the clutch down until it slips, motor flares to 2,500 let clutch up normally ( don't dump ) motor should rapidly pull back down to preslip speed.
As for clutch life, some of these has a self adjusting pressure plate that gives a variable height peddle as it malfunctions. No, not the auto adjusting release bearing but actual springs / wedges in the clutch cover apparently intended to reduce clutch release cylinder wear. This can be replaced with a regular clutch cover
The release bearing hydraulic unit is self adjusting and can leak.
Changing the clutch on this is easy and new clutch parts not expensive even for OE like Valeo or LUK. Be sure to get the flywheel resurfaced, a warped flywheel will cause the clutch to drag. Also change the master and slave hydraulic unit at the same time. I'm big on lifeing parts and changing them near end of life rather than waiting for something to break at random.