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Old 03-20-2015, 11:30 AM
Maxbumpo Maxbumpo is offline
Diesel Preferred
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 2,788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceristimo View Post
1) This question is just because I'm curious. How are you supposed to stop a run-away diesel? Just for fun I blocked the air intake as she was idling. I had removed the hose that goes to the air filter. If I block it off completely with a block of wood, all that happens is a LOUD hissing noise - sounds like it comes from the breather tube on top of the air filter - and the engine just keeps on running. I really thought blocking the air intake on the air filter housing would starve it, but I guess not.
Sounds like your intake has a lot of holes allowing air in? Or perhaps the breather hose from the valve cover is allowing enough air to run? I've heard that blocking off the intake is the best method, maybe you've got to open up the air filter box to eliminate as much of the air duct work as possible and block the intake manifold directly. Another method is to use a CO2 fire extinguisher aimed into the air intake.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceristimo View Post
2) Could anyone please help me locate the bottom clip for the oil cooler? I'm missing that one, and the oil cooler is loose on the bottom. I did not lose it, it wasn't there when I bought it (though I didn't notice it at the time...)
Online access to a version of the EPC (electronic parts catalog):
Mercedes-Benz Teilekatalog (Ersatzteile online)

Find your clip part number, call the MBUSA Classic Center in Irvine California, order the part. You'll get a nice discount if you join the MBCA, which basically will discount the cost of the shipping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceristimo View Post
5) I've noticed that the engine makes a rattling/clackety sound when I start it. When I start the engine, it sounds normal for the first two seconds, then there will be a loud(er) clacketing/tapping noise which disappears after 5 seconds. After that everything sounds normal. This happens on cold starts.
Sounds like your glow plugs initially keep the pre-chambers warm enough so that combustion is good, then cool off and some of your cylinders are firing until the normal operation of the engine warms them back up.

You could try the "purple wire mod" which will give you afterglow on every start. This will burn out your glow plugs faster, but reduce roughness and smoking on start.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceristimo View Post
6) How hard is the transmission supposed to pull? When I shift in reverse with my foot on the brake, the rear end of the car comes up noticably. When I shift in D, the rear end comes down noticably, and I can feel it pulling. I've only owned andd riven one other automatic car in my life (the one my wife drives) and it doesn't do that. Is it normal to pull quite hard?
Sounds like you may have a combination of high idle speed and bad bushings in the rear suspension, allowing a lot of travel.
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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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