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Old 02-16-2003, 10:09 PM
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dmorrison dmorrison is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Colleyville, Texas
Posts: 2,694
Question Suspension rebuild a review and questions

Well I;m getting ready to rebuild the front end of my 82 300TD. I'm getting some clarifications from Fastlane on part descriptions and making sure I have all the correct parts. The follwoing is what I intend to do

Remove the hubs and replace the wheel bearings. Drive the old races out with a brass punch. Lightly tap all around the circumference of the race to knock it out slowly. Use the old race to install the new race with a soft mallet. I will tighten the hubs using the Mercedes method of using a dial caliper to check lash.

Replace disks. Should I use new bolts or just use locktight on the old bolts?

New calipers (actually rebuilds from O'reilly's) and pads (Mercedes). And brake hoses. Locktight on the caliper mounting bolts.

I have purchased the Sir Tool Compressor M0070 and I should get it around the 20th. I just hate working on coil springs without the correct tool. Having 4 Mercedes it will come in handy.

I will replace the following on the front suspsnsion. After completely disassembling the suspension I will rebuild--

Upper Control arms ---New.

Rebuild the sway bar bushings that attach the sway bar to the UCA

What experience does anyone have with replacing the sway bar mount bushings? Do they wear out? They are easy to do but a pain to get to.

Shocks are new so they will be re-installed

Lower Control arm, press in the inner bushing again as per the Service manual using the press I have. I was informed by my brother that I can use a ball joint press to do the majority of the rubber bushings as long as you use silicon spray and are careful not to damage the structure of the bushing assembly.
Ball joints. Using light alloy jaws in my vice. I will mount the LCA and force out the ball joint using an appropriate size socket and a Big Mallet. I will press the new ball joint in by using a method my Brother ( a mechanic, who works on Mercedes) uses in the shop he works in. Remove the rubber boot to prevent damage. Use a ball joint tool to press it in and reinstall the boot. If this doesn't work out I'll have a local shop install them.

New guide rod mounts. Rebuild the rod to LCA bushing.

New Tie rod assemblies, center drag link and steering damper.

Rebuild the Idle arm assembly as per the service manual.

Any of you who have done this, Advise and techniques would surely be appreciated. I have completely rebuilt a 65 Mustang so I am not new to this. I have an extensive tool collection and will buy the correct tool if necessary. Do you recommend a Hydraulic press for the races and ball joints? I know I could rent the ball joint press but my brother assures me that his method is pretty easy.
( I would have him help me but I'm in Texas and he's in South Carolina).

1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
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