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Stevo - I tried to bleed again with your suggestion but instead of using an oil can I used a really large syringe so I could see exactly what I was forcing up from the bottom. Also, I took the bleed screw completely out and put some teflon tape around the outer threads to eliminate the fluid being forced out the threads (definate improvement) when I was pushing it up through the system from the bottom. I emptied the brake resevoir and then forced enough fluid up from below through the slave cylinder to fill the brake fluid resevior. No way it couldn't bled right? Still dragging clutch like the system wasn't properly bled - ARG!
Well, ended up dropping the transmission as I figured something was amiss with the clutch arm or pressure plate and found a broken spring on the clutch plate itself? The spring was broken into 3 pieces and floating around and I guess a piece would occationally wedge against the clutch disc and cause my symtoms? Notice in the picture the spring pieces are laying on the clutch .
Anyway, I now need a new clutch disc after replacing a funcitoning clutch master cylinder (anybody need a very slightly used one at a deeply discounted price?) and 3 wasted attempts to bleed the clutch system. So my question is which clutch discs should I buy? I've got an '87 2.5 turbo that I used an '84 190E gaser as a donor for the manual transmission, flywheel, clutch and PP. The 190E clutch disc is apx 8.5" across and the 190D wit the 2.2 is apx 8" across. Logically I'd want to stick with the 8.5" disc but I'm wondering if the hub of the 2.2 diesel is more robust vs the 2.0 liter gasser? Anybody know? Am I likely to destroy the hub springs if I replace with another 190E clutch? I didn't buy a new clutch disc 30K back when I did this swap, instead I had the existing clutch from the donor car relined at a local clutch shop.
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You can't always get what you want, but if you try sometime you just might find you get what you need.
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