When towing, the trailer brakes should be strong enough to not to need braking forces from the car. If towing a non braked trailer, then speeds, following distances should be adjusted accordingly.
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Originally Posted by t walgamuth
I don't see how abs can possibly help you stop quicker in the 126 mb if you are on dry pavement though. It functions by releasing the brakes so that right there means you will be getting x% less braking.
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The above isn't entirely correct. For any maximum braking event ( ABS or not ) the tire needs to rotate at some % _slower_ than road speed. If the wheel locks up, braking distance increases due to "hydroplaning" on melting rubber. The difference between max braking and lockup is pretty small.
In order to recover from this, brake pressure must be released in order for the wheel to rotate again.
What ABS does is monitor wheel speed and if a wheel sees rotational speed significantly slower than the others or make a sudden drop in speed:
Blocks further application of hydraulic pressure.
If the wheel does not begin to rotate again, pressure is released.
Once the wheel begins to rotate again, brake pressure is again applied and the cycle repeats it's self.
Something that no one can argue with is that ABS allows for different left / right braking forces on split traction surfaces and instant front / rear brake bias adjustments. I think that the F/R bias adjustment is where the real advantage is.
( As side note, when cornering, tires need a certain amount of slip. If the car starts to under steer to the point more steering won't bring it back, unwinding the steering wheel a bit then turning again will allow you to regain traction. This sounds counter intuitive but does work. )