Quote:
Originally Posted by ScooterABC
Jesus guys, give him a break!
1. Forget the racing stuff - it's too much work for what you are trying to fix.
2. Buy the correct MC for $525ish (email me your VIN if not sure)
3. Flush the front and rear system until it is beautiful.
4. Replace any old rubber hoses
5. Enjoy your car.
Some of the suggestions you are getting are WAY over the top for fixing a simple problem.
Forum: are you trying to scare this guy off? Knock it off!
Scott
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Well, I'm just trying to cover the OP's requests. Not scare anybody.
But sometimes, getting parts for vintage cars can be a real hassle, and not for the faint of heart!
The OP has said repeatedly that he didn't want to spend $500+ on an OE master cylinder. Others have stated that a new MC from Mercedes is now a lot more than $500. And there was a valid comment about getting one that's been on the shelf too long. A friend recently bought an expensive NOS MC like that for a vintage car and the rubber seals had turned to goo after 20 years. So he wound up having to get it rebuilt anyway. Fortunately, the seller of that new MC paid for the rebuild.
Given these concerns, I felt the best bet would be to rebuild, or have rebuilt, the original ATE MC.
Now, if the classic center, or whoever has a $500 NOS ATE MC for that car, is willing to guaranty the age and condition of that part, maybe the best choice would be a new one.
As for the Tilton, another friend used to vintage-race a '65 Sunbeam Tiger and he found one to convert that car to a dual-circuit system that was a straight bolt-on, required no firewall modifications, and it cost much less than $500. They're made in all sorts of configurations and bore sizes.
Not saying that one is availible to fit an old Fintail, but thought it might be a possibility.
Happy Motoring, Mark