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Old 11-04-2015, 11:28 AM
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Stretch Stretch is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by w123fanman View Post
I believe this could be bad on my car, just haven't gotten around to pulling the instrument cluster. I have the sensor from my parts car that I believe was good sitting on my workbench waiting to go in. Car idles like crap.
In my experience I (think I) have learnt the following.

Electrickery =>

1) You need a "clean" power source - that means no leaky diodes on your alternator

2) You need a good OVP

3) The air idle control valve needs to be clean and to operate properly

4) The temperature senders are important

5) The O2 sensor needs to send a reliable signal

6) The pulses from the rear crankshaft sensor are important not only for the spark in the plugs but the CIS too

7) The air flow potentiometer is a big wear problem! (CIS air flow potentiometer possible fix?)

8) The hydro-electric actuator is a twat

9) New plugs leads and cap are a must

Fuel =>

1) Fuel pressures are a bugger to measure because of the silly sized unions used by Mercedes - a dedicated kit is expensive

2) Injectors don't last forever!

3) The plunger for the fuel distributor can stick

4) If the electro-hydraulic actuator leaks then there's trouble - but it is only two little (thicker than normal!) O rings





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In your case I'd start by looking at the air flow sensor tracks and perhaps change the O2 sensor.

The problem I have is a good steady idle for most of the time but occasional drop of death (usually on a round about so the power steering dies too!)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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