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Old 07-10-2016, 02:16 AM
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Coasttocoast Coasttocoast is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Honolulu
Posts: 291
This rack and pinion swap is more involved than I first thought.

The flaming River rack's body is the same width as the inner tie rod ends, but I didn't think about the fact that since the rack has 6" of travel then the actual joint would be a minimum of 3" past the body on both sides for a total of about 25 1/2", so that not going to work.

Flaming River has what they call a travel bar that seems customizable to pick the right location for the inner tie rod links. Still waiting on a reply.

Still another issue is travel. Most aftermarket R&P units only have 6 -6 3/8" of travel. Quick measurements show my existing steering has about 8 1/2" of travel.

I've read more than I care about concerning rack and pinion. I don't want to reinvent the wheel here, so my plan is to make sure that I keep the tie rod connection the same as stock so I don't have to get into "bump steer". Seems like that's all everyone wants to talk about.

Seems like some people have used rack out of W210's, Cavaliers, Caddilac's, etc. but it's seems everyone accepts a larger turning radius, in using them.

One solution is to move the outer tie rod end connection closer to the wheel center. So far this is the only solution I've found, but welding such a critical piece is a little scary.

I've got some more research to do, but if anyone has some rack ideas I'm all ears, that is if it doesn't involve "bump steer".

One of my other steering challenges was the steering column. With its weird two shaft penetration thought the firewall and over the gas pedal interfering with the new electronic gas pedal. I also wanted a smaller diameter steering wheel.

So my solution was to buy the whole assembly out of a 1974 450SL. Shouldn't take a lot of fab work to make it fit. Side benefits are keeping it MB, I like that steering wheel, and bonus is switching for a electric windshield washer pump.

'69 230 build w/LQ4 swap-image.jpeg
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