Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob
- The car is apparently starting in 2nd gear, which is contributing (obviously) to the sluggishness off-the-line. My mechanic has done a bunch of diagnostic fiddling, and thinks the issue will end up being a bad spring or brake band in the valve body. Not terrible, if that's what it is - hopefully it's nothing worse.
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If it really is starting in 2nd gear, wow, that would make it very sluggish off the line. It either has the wrong transmission, the wrong valvebody, or something is wrong inside the valvebody (broken spring is not uncommon). First thing would be to check if the tranny is indeed the correct 722.418 for the 124.128 chassis. Next would be to verify the tranny serial number and see if it matches the EPC datacard for your VIN. If the trans has been replaced, there's always a chance the rebuilder goofed. If it's original, it's fairly likely something is broken - or stuck/jammed - inside the valvebody. Mechanics generally won't want to mess with diagnosis and will recommend replacing the entire transmission. If all other shifts are good, I'd want to fiddle with the valvebody and see if you can find what's wrong. No point shelling out $1500-$3000 if you don't have to.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bimmer-Bob
- The injection pump is apparently leaking oil badly. I'm probably just looking at a reseal, but it might be hard to find someone willing to do this (I suspect a diesel shop will try and upsell me into a rebuild), and I think it might be leaking too badly to make it the 300 miles to my house for me to attempt to DIY the repair - that is, if I even dare do so.
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It would have to be an incredibly bad oil leak to not make it 300 miles... like, dripping into a puddle when parked at idle. If it was that bad, I'd suspect the big O-ring between the block and the IP. This is DIY'able if you can get it home, with the IP lock took, and timing basket... although
this thread mentions you may not need the basket. (??)
