Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatOne
the tank strainer itself does not need to be removed before taking the tank itself out.
I take the fuel feed flexible hose out of the tank strainer, that is a 19mm hex, you will need to remove the rubber seal that cover's the opening in the chassis, then disconnect the flex hose from the steel fuel line, put the wrench to the flex hose's fitting and remove that. The fitting sticks down about an inch from the bottom of the tank when it's in place, that makes it harder to maneuver the tank itself out.
If the flex hose is in good shape you can reuse it as is if the hose itself is bad or the crimp that secures to to the hose bib fitting is rusted you can cut the crimp of and use a band clamp to secure a new replacement hose to the bib and save $30 for a new replacement. 5/16" fuel rated hose if I recall correctly.
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Thank you for the informative response.. I still haven't drained the tank, cleaned the algae, but it is a slow work in progress. That's what makes this project fun anyway. It kills my spare-time boredom.
Update:
Rotella 15W40 Diesel weight oil change with a Hengst filter, new o-rings and seal on the filter housing.
Diagnosed some vacuum issues trans related.
Pressure washed some oil stains to get a better idea of what leaks I'm dealing with.
This is my current list of to-dos:
Replace the delivery valve seals, some fuel seepage.
Have greazzer rebuild the injectors.
Remove, drain, clean fuel tank. Clean or replace tank strainer.
Bypass EGR, clean intake.
Bypass fuel warmer with Kent Bergsma's kit.
Diagnose clunking noise when in gear moving, and clunky downshifts.
By that I plan to inspect, rear diff mounts, flex discs, inspect center support bearing.
Replace front ball joints, very dry rotted and cracked.
Replace brakes all around.