Several things to try, all of them are cheap.

Pull the plugs wires from the distributor cap one at a time. Look for blue powder. This is evidence of arcing and will build up enough resistance to shut down the spark from the distributor to the plug. Start with the wire from the coil as it is usually where this starts. Check both ends.

Check your coil wire with a continuity tester to see if current is passing through it. The coil wire can break down internally and not pass voltage from the coil to the distributor.

Check your rotor cap. OK, on the 6.3 this is a bit expensive so clean the black off the end of the rotor and file off the arcing. Also check the inside of the distributor cap for carbon build up. This can be knocked off with a sharp tool or scraped off with a flat tip screwdriver.

(You may consider buying a new distributor cap if yours is cartooned inside. But when you see the price of such a cap you might want to try scraping the carbon off one more time!)

Then pull a wire from a plug and hold it next to a valve cover. Have someone crank the engine. If the ignition system is firing you should see a spark jump from the end of the wire to the cylinder cover. If not then you will know there is no spark to your plugs.

You can also check the wires and see if they are passing current. There is no need to buy a new set of wires as each part of each wire can be replaced. You can check the plug caps, the wire itself and the distributor plug. I have found that all three can go bad independently of the others.

You can buy everything you need from Peach Parts. If not then the dealer could surely provide the individual parts.

If you find some used wires then be sure to check the ohms on the metal plug connector. They vary from car to car but the ohm level is indicated on the side of the metal cap.

And don't forget to check your points. Both sets should look good and have some contact metal left. If one or both is burned down to just the arms then that is probably your problem.