The cluster pulls out. Your dealer has some specialty tools that make the job pretty easy. You slide in them in at the top on each side, and YANK.
Be careful not to break the cluster, as it's $$$$$$$.
Replace ALL the bulbs so that you're not doing it again soon.
BTE, is you find the job daunting, most dealers charge an hours labour in case you're curious.
1998 C230 "Black Betty"