Running WVO right long term is:

1. sub 1 micron filtration of oil along with...
2. complete dewatering -> research heated upflow filtration
3. proper selection of oil (lightly used, non-hydrogenated oils = mexican, thai, japanese NOT pizza joint, fish fry, clam shack, mcdonalds)
4. quick use of oil - research 'polymerization' or proper long term storage in full airtight containers away from open air and moisture
5. proper system and temp: the oil must be AT LEAST 180 degrees at the injectors when being used and completely purged before shutdown.
6. proper maintenance of the engine to begin with. valves, timing, injectors, glow plugs etc. oil changes every 3k.

ive done this for well over 100k (from 150k to 250k on the engine) and my compression is still 380-400 and my injectors look as clean as petro-diesel ones. i personally do not run water injection - but it can be helpful - i just rather do the above steps correctly, and then it is not necessary.

if you are not willing or able to do these things consistently, run petro-diesel or a commercial biodiesel blend. otherwise you will destroy the engine.

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car